In this guide I'll be teaching you how to make a low-profile enclosure and exhaust system for a desktop mSLA Resin 3D Printer. The printer I have is an Elegoo Mars 2 Pro, but anything similar in size will work as well (like an Anycubic Photon, Creality Halot, etc.).
I took heavy inspiration for the window exhaust unit from this blog here: DIY Window Exhaust Port.
There’s a lot of modding capability depending on what your needs are. I’m just going to outline the bare-bones enclosure here. I’ll probably make some tool holders and integrate some lighting in the future. Comment below if you have any ideas for improvements, or mods that you are willing to share!
First things first, here is a list of materials you will need:
- Bookshelf – I bought mine from Target for $35 USD. You don’t have to use this exact one, but you need something that’s deep enough and tall enough for your printer to completely fit into.
- Slide Kit – You need 4 slides total (2 pair). Make sure they are full extension and aren’t deeper than the depth of your shelves.
- Plywood Project Board – This will be the piece that goes into the window, and what your custom shelves will be made from. The shelves need to be strong enough so that downward force won’t pull any screws out, and the window piece will be exposed to the elements (so MDF and particle board won't work).
- Particle Board Project Board – This will be what you use for the enclosure door. Plywood would be unnecessarily heavy for this application, but if you have extra, then you can use that instead. Make sure that it’s the right thickness for the hinges you buy.
- Cabinet Hinges – Take note above for size. I used cabinet-style hinges the first time I made the door for this enclosure, and it was a nightmare. If you’ve never installed cabinet hinges before, I recommend just getting utility hinges like the ones I have linked.
- Magnets (Optional) – These can help your cabinet doors stay closed.
- Screw Hooks – These need to be as low-profile as possible, but also large enough for your finger to grab. These will be the “handles” for your shelves. You need 2, one for the printer shelf and one for the extension shelf.
- Handle – This will be on the exterior of your enclosure, used to open the main access door.
- Aluminum Duct – Aluminum duct is good for flammable fumes and is typically used for laser engraver exhaust systems. mSLA resin fumes aren’t necessarily flammable, but I still recommend aluminum duct over vinyl duct just to be safe. The length of duct you need is dependent on how far away from a window your enclosure will be.
- Extra Duct Clamps – These will be used to secure your duct to the fan and fittings. You need 4 total.
- Duct Fan – You need a 4” fan. I recommend one with variable speeds and an integrated power adapter, so that you don’t have to do any electrical modifications. Bonus if it comes with a mounting bracket.
- Hardware – you need some nails and screws. I used #8 hardware in various lengths and 18-gauge nails for my nail gun.
- If you have an FDM 3D Printer, then there are some parts you need to print, which are detailed below. If not, you will need to make these parts out of wood or other supplies.
- 3M Double-Sided Tape – This will help mitigate some of the air draft on the window unit.
- Closed-Cell Foam – “closed-cell” just means that air and water can’t pass through this material. I used some packing foam from a keyboard I bought.
Tools:
- Hammer
- Drill/Impact
- Screwdriver
- Tape Measure
- Pencil or Marker
- Jig Saw
- Table Saw/Circular Saw (Optional)
- Nail Gun (Optional)
- Paint Supplies (Optional)
SECTION 1: Make Your Fittings
All the files you need can be obtained here: Enclosure Exhaust System by iroquoisplzkn - Thingiverse
You need to print one of each piece, standard resolution at 20% infill. No need for supports if you have everything oriented properly on the build plate. I used PLA because it was all I had. Note: If you bought the fan linked in the materials list, you will need the fan bracket. If you purchased a fan with a bracket included, you will not need to print the fan bracket. If your fan shape isn’t compatible with the bracket in my design package, you’ll have to make one from scratch.
You need to glue the exhaust tube to the flat face of the exhaust flange. This will provide a clamping interface for the ducting. The only reason these are two separate parts is because it allows you to print the exhaust flange without any supports.
If you do not have access to a 3D printer, follow these instructions for making the exhaust slide (step 1) and exhaust port (step 2): DIY Window Exhaust Port. You need to make two exhaust ports, one for the window unit and one for the enclosure hookup.
SECTION 2: Make the Enclosure
Step 1: Measure the interior width of your bookshelf and the thickness of your slides. Subtract the thickness of your slides (X2) from your bookshelf width measurement. This will be the width of your printer shelf.
Example: The bookshelf pictured below has shelves with a width of 23.2 inches. The slides I used had a thickness of ½ inch. Therefore, my shelves will be 23.2 - .5 - .5 = 22.2 inches.
Step 2: Measure the depth of your bookshelf and the depth of your drawer pull. Subtract the drawer pull depth from the bookshelf depth. Subtract an additional ¼ inch for clearance. This will be the depth of your printer shelf.
Example: The bookshelf pictured above has a shelf depth of 11.4 inches. Let’s say you purchase drawer pulls with a projection of ½ inch. 11.4 - .5 - .25 = 10.65 inches.
Note: I haven’t found any drawer pulls that are low-profile enough to fit this application. I will probably end up 3D printing something and adding it to the Thingiverse link at the top of this guide.
Step 3: Cut two shelves based on the measurements from steps 1 and 2 using a jig saw, table saw, or circular saw. Note: these cuts need to be as square as possible.
Step 4: Trim 1/8 inch off each short end of ONE of the shelves. This will be your extension shelf.
Example: You cut two shelves, both measuring 22.2 inches x 10.65 inches. You need to trim down ONE of your shelves by 1/8 inch on each side, so you will have ONE 22.2 inches x 10.65 inches shelf and ONE 21.95 inches x 10.65 inches shelf. This trim is necessary to avoid rubbing of the slides that are attached in steps 7 and 8. Note: My images show these shelves as being the same width even though they shouldn’t be. This is a mistake on my part, and I need to go back and fix my assembly.
Step 5: Sand down both shelves until they are smooth to the touch.
Step 6: Paint the shelves (Optional). I chose not to paint mine because they will be hidden when the enclosure is closed.
Step 7: Assemble 1 pair of slides between the printer shelf and the extension shelf. You want these to be as close to the short edges as possible, without them hanging over the short edge of the extension shelf. Make sure that these are assembled as square as possible, otherwise you will have problems racking out/in your shelf. Also make sure that your extension shelf is centered on your printer shelf. Note: you need to pre-drill your holes so that the wood does not split when you screw into it. Use a screw that is long enough to get a lot of threads in the board but not long enough to poke through the other side. See the image below for how these should look when racked out.
Step 8: Assemble 1 pair of slides to the short sides of the printer shelf. These slides will be perpendicular to the slides between the printer shelf and the extension shelf. Note: you need to pre-drill your holes so that the wood does not split when you screw into it. See the image below for a front view of what this assembly should look like.
**ENSURE THAT YOU CAN RACK OUT/IN YOUR EXTENSION SHELF EASILY BEFORE ASSEMBLING THE SHELF UNIT INTO THE BOOKSHELF**
Step 9: Mark the cutout for the enclosure exhaust flange. This cutout needs to be at the same level as your printers when they are in the bookshelf.
Step 10: Drill a pilot hole through the exhaust hole marking, then use a jigsaw to carefully cut out the exhaust hole. See the image below for reference. Note: Your shelf assembly SHOULD NOT be installed yet.
**CLEAN ALL DEBRIS FROM CUTTING, DRILLING, AND SANDING. AVOID GETTING THIS DEBRIS INTO THE SLIDE TRACKS**
Step 11: Assemble the shelf unit into the bookshelf, using the slides on the sides of the printer shelf. Note: the bookshelf is made of particle board. Apply wood glue or construction glue to the threads of your screws before fastening them. This will strengthen the material that you are threading into. Alternatively, you can drill holes all the way through the sides of your bookshelf and fasten the slides using bolts and nuts. Note: Make sure there is a gap beneath the extension shelf and the shelf below it (if there is one).
**ENSURE THAT YOU CAN RACK OUT/IN YOUR SHELF ASSEMBLY EASILY. ADJUST AS NEEDED.**
Step 12: Measure the height and width of the enclosure area. This will be the size of your enclosure door.
Step 13: Mark your particle board with the width and height that you measured in step 12.
Step 14: Cut the enclosure door to size.
Step 15: Sand down the door until it is smooth to the touch.
Step 16: Paint the door (Optional).
Step 17: Refer to the instructions for your cabinet hinges to install the hinges on your enclosure door. Make sure that the hinge location does not interfere with the shelf assembly.
Step 18: Install the handle onto the enclosure door.
Step 19: Assemble the enclosure door to the bookshelf.
Step 20: Install the magnets to keep the door from popping open.
Step 21: YOU MUST ANCHOR YOUR BOOKSHELF TO THE WALL. I CANNOT STRESS THIS ENOUGH. YOU WILL BE PULLING THE SHELVES TOWARDS YOU OVER AND OVER AGAIN, EVERY TIME YOU NEED TO ACCESS YOUR PRINTER. THIS BOOKSHELF MAY FALL ON YOU IF IT IS NOT SECURED PROPERLY.
SECTION 3: Make the Exhaust Unit
Step 1: Measure the width of your window with a tape measure.
Step 2: Mark your plywood with the width you measured by however tall you want the unit to be. Mine was 11 inches tall.
Step 3: Mark where your exhaust flange is going to be located on the window board. You want the flange to be on the furthest side of the board from your enclosure, so that there is enough room for the fan to be attached to the board in-line with your duct. Note: make sure that the exhaust flange is up high enough so that it doesn’t interfere with the “lip” of your window when set in place.
Step 4: Mark the center of the exhaust hole on the window board, based on the exhaust flange position.
**DOUBLE CHECK ALL OF YOUR MEASUREMENTS BEFORE YOU START CUTTING**
Step 5: Cut the window board to size.
Step 6: Drill a pilot hole through the exhaust hole marking, then use a jigsaw to carefully cut out the exhaust hole.
Step 7: Paint the window board (Optional).
Step 8: Apply double-sided foam tape to the edges of the exhaust flange (shown in blue, below).
Step 9: Seat the handle in the exhaust flange, then stick the exhaust flange onto the window board. Press the tape firmly to ensure it is adhered. Note: You must seat the handle before assembling the flange to the board, otherwise you will never be able to install the handle. The handle is what closes the exhaust port when the system is not in use, which is absolutely necessary to prevent weather and critters from entering the system.
Step 10: Nail the exhaust flange to the window board. If the nails are too long and go through the other side of the board, tap them with a hammer at an angle so they bend flush over the board. Note: DO NOT nail through the handle, only nail through the outer edges of the exhaust flange, where the tape was applied.
Step 11: Mount the fan to the window board. Make sure that the fan is in line with the center of the exhaust hole. Note: The fan bracket isn’t the strongest thing in the world. It is just meant to hold the fan upright. Be careful when fastening the bracket to the board, because the bracket can crack if the screws are torqued down too much.
Step 12: Secure a piece of duct between the exhaust flange and the fan output using duct clamps.
Step 13: Seat the window unit into the window.
Step 14: Cut a piece of closed-cell foam to fit between the bottom of the window and the top of the window board. This will help even out any lumps and bumps and eliminate any drafts. You can also apply some tape overtop of this joint if you’d like.
Step 15: Assemble the enclosure flange to the side of the bookshelf, centered around the exhaust hole cutout. Note: If you used the 3D printed files provided, you just need 4 screws. If you made an exhaust port following the guide I referenced, you’ll have to glue/nail this piece to your bookshelf.
Step 16: Secure a piece of duct between the enclosure exhaust flange and the fan input using duct clamps.
Step 17: Marvel at your master-crafted work. Plug in that fan, turn it on, open the window exhaust port, and get printing!
Some notes:
- When you drill/cut the hole in the side of the bookshelf for the air exhaust, I also recommend drilling a smaller hole for your power adapter cables to pass through.
- Remember to close the exhaust port with the handle after you are done using this system and remember to open it back up when you are ready to use it again! Leaving it open can let squirrels, bats, bugs, rain, snow, and cold into your home. Leaving it closed when the fan is running can cause strain on the fan from pressure buildup and can lead to premature fan failure.
- In reference to the above, you may want to consider stapling a mesh barrier on the exhaust hole in the window board for a little extra protection.
- DO NOT LEAN ON THE PRINTER SHELF WHEN IT IS FULLY EXTENDED. YOU WILL BREAK IT.
- Do not leave the enclosure unattended if you have the printer shelf fully extended. The slide screws could give, your cat could jump up there, etc., leaving you with a broken printer and a mess of resin to clean off your floor.